Hi niamh, I'm sorry to hear about your situation. I have a few questions about your tank: When you acquired the 190L aquarium, was it completely empty? If so, when you set it up did you add anything in the water before you added the fish? Did you add all 40 fish at one time? Before the fish started showing signs of diseases, did you perform any water changes? If so, How much water do you remove and how often? What are the levels of nitrate, nitrite and ammonia? While treating, do you remove the carbon from your filter and perfrom partial water changes as directed on the label?
You mentioned that you had a clownfish, I'm not sure if you're confusing it with something else like clown barbs, clown loaches tiger barbs, tiger platies, etc. Clownfish (Amphiprion# are marine #saltwater# fish and cannot live in freshwater environments. Also, your tank sounds like it's overstocked. Over crowding can cause stress to fish, stress supresses their prodcution of slime coat which protects from diseases. A general rule of thumb on calculating how many fish you can put in your tank is one inch of fish #taking their ADULT SIZE in consideration, not the size they are currently) per gallon of your aquarium. This calculation has it's flaws but it is a good starting point if you are not sure.
How long have you owned an aquarium? 3+ years
Type of tank: Tropical
Size of tank: Larger than 50 gallons
answered 3 years ago
Union City, CA
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
We appreciate your concern. From what we can gather in your email, your tank is around 55 gallons of water. 40 fish would have been too many fish for even an established tank of that size, and when you purchased this tank, we assume you moved it without much or any old water. So when you set it up, you had all new water in it. Then on top of the 40 fish it originally housed, you put additional fish in the tank. We hope our summary here is correct.
So what this caused was an immediate issue with water quality. Many of the symptoms you have described can be related to high ammonia and nitrite problems. Have you tested these parameters? If not, we suggest you do so. It does sound like there are some disease issues going on here as well, but until the water quality is improved, you will not be able to do much about any of the diseases. What we recommend is a daily water change of about 20% of the water, adding conditioned new water back into the tank. Do this for 3-4 days in a row, no medications added at all. Also, add aquarium salt for freshwater fish at a rate of 2 tablespoons per 10 gallons (I think that equates to 3 liters??) or basically 10 tablespoons total for the initial dose, and then an appropriate amount for each water change. The salt will help the fish with stress, regulating osmosis, and reducing nitrite levels.
Now, after 4 days, you can try treating for the only disease we know for sure the fish have, some type of parasite. We would recommend Parasite Guard tablets. If you cannot find those in your area, look for another medication that treats gill flukes, as I think that your fish have these, and this is why they are "flashing" on rocks. You could also try another round of Lifeguard, but I chose Parasite Guard because it is more specific to that problem.
While treating, stay on top of the water changes, do one prior to each treatment, and make sure you add salt to the amount of new water you add each time, until the tank has stablilized. If I knew what your readings were, I would highly recommend Tetra Safe Start, from our other division, but it cannot be added when ammonia and nitrite levels are very toxic. You might want to add it after the first four water changes though, and wait 24 hours before starting the Parasite Guard.
answered 3 years, 1 month ago
3out of 3found this answer helpful.